The Golden Lemon Inn and Villas

A sense of style transforms a great house into a great inn
By Paris Permenter and John Bigley

We've all heard that saying: when life gives you lemons, make lemonade.

Well, when life gave Arthur Leaman a lemon, he made one of the Caribbean's most romantic intimate inns.

Four decades ago, Leaman, then decorating editor for House and Garden magazine, came to St. Kitts in search of a warm home and a potential guest house. He fell in love with a 17th century great house--one in desperate need of a real makeover. His friends told him that he'd bought a lemon. Leaman replied that if it were a lemon, then it had better be a golden one. The Golden Lemon was born.

Today the former New Yorker's sense of style shows in every room of the inn, from a great room where guests congregate to an elegant antiques-filled dining area to the immaculate guest rooms. The great house serves as a focal point for the property, a two-story structure harking back to the island's early days with a long porch that edges both the top and the bottom floors. And, in true Golden Lemon style, a jaunty yellow and white canopy shades the first floor dining terrace, a stylish reminder of the property's present purpose.

Located on the north side of the island, Golden Lemon is perched on the edge of a black volcanic sand beach in the shadow of the island's dormant volcano, Mount Liamuiga, usually fringed with a ring of clouds.

Guest Rooms

The property is composed of 26 accommodations, each unique and housed in both the great house and contemporary seaside villas. Each is filled an atmosphere that invites relaxation. No children under age 18 are permitted, and the inn blissfully insulates travelers from the outside world with no televisions, radios, or newspapers.

Rooms in the Great House feature the most traditional look, with West Indian antiques ranging from mahogany poster beds (complete with steps) to sinks tucked in carved mahogany sideboards. A more modern decor is found in the villas, one- and two-bedroom suites that offer the ultimate in luxury with private plunge pools that invite a midnight swim. Throughout the villas, tropical colors combine with contemporary touches such as a soaring ceiling or a large bath with a tantalizing mirror.

Whether guests opt for the Great House or the villas, all rooms include telephones with internet access and fresh flowers daily; some accommodations are air-conditioned while other guests opt to throw open the windows and be cooled by tropical trade winds. Guests also have free use of the resort's snorkel equipment, perfect for exploring the multi-colored reef that lies just off the water's edge. Here you'll find few organized activities; most guests are happy to camp out in a chaise lounge beneath a umbrella with a good book.

The resort does include a lap pool for working off excess energy. And for those in search of a little exploration, it's easy to arrange a visit into nearby Basseterre, a guided volcano or rainforest hike, a rail trip across the island, a day trip to Nevis, and more. Many guests rent cars for their stay or arrange for local tours and transport. And if you overexert, relaxation always awaits back at the Golden Lemon: in-room massages are just a call away.

Dining at Golden Lemon

Fine dining also leads travelers to this elegant resort. All room rates include a full American breakfast which is served in your room or villa--or even in bed for a morning of real relaxation. For many returning guests, a must-have is a bowl of the Golden Lemon's special porridge, a hotel recipe that is so special it was featured in Gourmet Magazine.

But it's at dinner that Golden Lemon truly radiates with an atmosphere that makes you feel like you're a guest in someone's beautiful tropical home. Evenings begin with drinks and discussion on the front terrace, truly a house party atmosphere where guests can share their day with Arthur Leaman and his partner. From there, the evening progresses to either the chandelier-lit dining room or sometimes to the garden, aglow with candles and backdropped by the quiet strains of a classical symphony, always with the accompaniment of local tree frogs.

Dinners showcase many local ingredients, from fresh tropical fruits and vegetables to the bounty of the sea. Lobster from Dieppe Bay is a menu favorite but look also for other dishes such as Creole steak with rum sauce or West Indian beef stew. Guests with an extended stay don't need to worry about culinary boredom, though; dinner menus change every night and aren't repeated over a two-week period.

Evenings end with a sweet taste of island life with dishes such as passion fruit sorbet. It's a reminder that a sweet outcome is always possible--just like The Golden Lemon itself.

If You Go

The Golden Lemon Inn and Villas
Dieppe Bay, St. Kitts
Telephone (869) 465-7260
www.goldenlemon.com