Plantation Beach Villas, Tobago
Some things never change in tiny Tobago
By Paris Permenter & John Bigley
We stood beneath an old Poinciana tree on a July afternoon when even the
shade provided little respite from the tropical heat. But the summertime
sizzle wasn’t about to melt the plans of this wedding party. Men
in tails and top hats and women in satiny splendor were joined by Tobagonian
touches: a bride's trousseau trunk balances on the head of one guest,
another transports a wedding cake safely tucked beneath mosquito netting.
This was Tobago’s Old Time Wedding, a reenactment of 19th century
nuptials, part of the annual Heritage Festival. The ceremony took place
within the walls of an historic church to a standing-room-only crowd.
From our vantage point, we couldn’t see the bride and groom, but
there was plenty of action outside, thanks to the pregnant "girlfriend"
who showed up halfway through the event and soon had locals roaring and
the visitors turning to islanders for an interpretation of the local patois.
A grand party followed as everyone "chipped" or shuffle danced
down the street, later joining in traditional dances such as the reel
and jig or the quadrille. And, of course, the event wasn’t complete
without a taste of the wedding cake and, in this case, the island's special
delicacy: curried crab and dumplings.
Where do you stay following a grand wedding? In a local home, of course.
This trip, we’d been lucky enough to find a home away from home that
gave us all the amenities of a fine resort but with the grand style of
a fine Tobagonian home. We were happily ensconced at Plantation Beach
Villas, located at Stonehaven Bay. Boasting a local style with gingerbread
fretwork and West Indian décor, this would be our island home for
the next few days.
Villa Living
We learned that each of these stylish villas had been designed by Swedish
architect Arne Hasselqvist, best known for the celebrity homes he designed
on the island of Mustique. Feeling a little like the rich and famous ourselves,
we set out to explore our new dwellings.
Spanning 3,600 square feet, each of the two-story villas starts with a
large living/dining room, which adjoins the full-service kitchen. The
modern kitchen had all the extras of a fine home, from an industrial-size
dishwasher to cutlery and glassware for eight. A downstairs, handicapped-accessible
bedroom and bath rounded out the downstairs offerings, except for our
favorite feature: a teak verandah that wrapped three-quarters around the
villa, complete with Adirondack chairs and outdoor dining area.
Upstairs, the West Indian style continued in two bedrooms with pencil
post beds, tile floors, and muted pastel tones. The bedroom doors opened
onto a balcony, letting in the Caribbean breeze, but each bedroom was
also air-conditioned. Each bedroom includes an ensuite bath, and Plantation
Beach Villa’s cleaning service means fresh linens daily. Each villa
is serviced by its own attendant who helps with any details.
For us, though, the only detail we needed to attend to was the decision
of which part of the property to enjoy first. A beach the color of toasted
coconut called out, as did the swimming pool. A drink at The Barefoot
Beach Bar was tempting. In future days, we knew we’d talk with the
reception office about booking some snorkeling as well as a nature tour
of the island.
But, for now, though, it was the beautifully landscaped grounds of Plantation
Beach Villas that called out to us. Each of the villas is carefully tucked
into the woodlands, positioned to cause as little disruption to the environment
as possible. With over 210 bird species found here, ranging from the tiny
bananaquit to the colorful blue tanager, the designers had been especially
careful to makes these villas work with Tobago’s natural beauty.
We later learned that the beach environment was carefully protected as
well, serving as a nesting ground for turtles during breeding season.
For now, though, we strolled the grounds, soaking in the sounds of the
exotic bird calls and the heady scents of tropical blooms.
Soon, though, the bird calls were replaced by far more familiar notes:
the traditional sounds of a wedding march. Peeking through the garden
foliage, we saw a bride in a flowing gown processing toward a white arch
decorated with flowers. Nearby, a steelpan band was on hand to help the
couple celebrate their union in true Caribbean style.
It was a far cry from the historic nuptial reenactment that had started
our Tobago journey. While the top hats (and the woman carrying a wedding
cake on her head) were gone, this modern ceremony was yet another reminder
that on Tobago some things, like the vows of love and the natural beauty
of the island, never change.
If You Go
Plantation Beach Villas
Scarborough, Tobago
Telephone: 868/639-9377
Facsimile: 868/639-0455
www.plantationbeachvillas.com
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